These are the ones to skip and what to buy instead


There are too many beauty products. I love them but I know they are true, and there are some products that I think you don’t have to worry about skipping. I don’t mention them to put a particular mark – and anything that makes your day better has value. However, I think we have both too many choices and too many products that claim to do things they can’t, as well as too few restrictions on what a brand can print on packaging. For example, it is not illegal or even unusual for a product to have vitamin C in its name when it contains a fragrant orange extract, rather than an appropriate cosmetic form of the vitamin that the skin can. use.

Oranges contain vitamin C of course, but rubbing their pungent extracts all over your face won’t improve matters! I always recommend checking ingredient lists, but even those don’t tell you why some products are worth leaving on the shelf.


Once upon a time, “Cleanse, Tone and Moisturize” was a skincare mantra, I remember school friends with acne buying three-part skin care “systems” and used them religiously. The toner step was generally alcohol based and helped remove residue from the cleaning step. It usually contained a fragrance and possibly an astringent ingredient such as witch hazel. Not only was this combination horribly irritating, the ineffectiveness of the cleanser made you feel like you couldn’t stop buying the toner, which was always flowing faster. Fortunately, great acne cleansers abound these days. If you are or have a teenager with spots, I recommend you The Inkey List Salicylic Acid Cleanser, € 13.99 at

The Inkey List Salicylic Acid Cleanser

A cleanser will not solve a hormonal problem, but can help manage the skin comfortably.

Please ignore the above if you are using salicylic, glycolic or polyhydroxy acid toner to exfoliate, these are a great gentle alternative to leave-in products.

Micellar water

This is another product that can leave irritating residue. Micellar water is a popular makeup remover. The residue can come from micelles: spherical aggregates of surfactants suspended in water. Surfactants are molecules with water-loving heads and oil-loving tails.

The tails trap dirt and makeup, the heads allow them to be wiped off. These surfactants are generally very mild and can leave sebum and even dirt on the surface of the skin. This is okay if you rinse your face afterwards or double cleanse (although an oil or cleansing balm is more effective at removing makeup), but micellar water alone is not enough. not. I much prefer oil cleansers which turn milky with water and rinse off. Erborian Centella cleansing oil, € 28.45 on combines sunflower and almond oils with soothing centella asiatica.

erborian Korean Skin Therapy Centella Cleansing Oil
erborian Korean Skin Therapy Centella Cleansing Oil

Retinol esters (when retinol is what you want)

Retinoids (a family of cosmetic forms of vitamin A) have been around for years and most women I talk to are interested in them. Their main concerns seem to be either that we’re worried that we won’t be able to tolerate retinol or retinaldehyde (the two most effective over-the-counter forms of vitamin A) or that the products they tried made no difference. Products that use retinyl esters such as retinyl palmitate, retinyl acetate, retinyl linoleate or retinyl propionate may be the culprits in the latter case. These fatty forms of retinol are not bad, they are helpful in fighting free radical damage and very mild. However, it will take much longer (and many repeat purchases) to generate roughly the same benefits from these ingredients as if you had started with a pure retinol or retinaldehyde in the first place. Some brands use retinol in their product name when a formula contains a retinol ester but not pure retinol. In short, if you see “retinol” in the name and retinol is what you want to use, verify that this is also the ingredient included in the ingredient list where transparency is required by law.

Sunday Riley A + High Dose Retinoid Serum 30ml
Sunday Riley A + High Dose Retinoid Serum 30ml

Sunday Riley A + High Dose Retinoid Serum, from € 83 on, combines retinol and the retinyl retinoate ester of hydryoxypinacolone. That doesn’t necessarily make it ‘high dose’, but it’s mild and contains a range of other antioxidants, including CoQ10 and sodium hyaluronate (a form of hyaluronic acid), all of which help skin look good. and feel better.

Facial mists

The water jets for the face are refreshing, especially when the air is lacking in humidity. The perfume (the rose is very common), contributes to an overall feeling of well-being.

XeraCalm Avene Balm
XeraCalm Avene Balm

The problem with the water-based mist spray alone is that the skin does not absorb it, it evaporates from the surface if you do not apply an occlusive moisturizer (eg. Eau Thermal Avène XeraCalm Lipid-Replenishing Balm, € 22.50 in a selection of pharmacies) on top to trap it. The ingredients in the perfume can cause irritation, so it’s best to trap a stream of pure mineral water or even shower water.


About Nunnally Maurice

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